Anyone who has spent time in the Antalya region will tell you that if you only see one of the area’s many glorious ruined cities, it should be Termessos. A short taxi ride away from Antalya, the remains of this breathtaking Ancient city are famous for their unique, unspoiled mountain setting, surrounded by pine forests and some of the best views you will ever see.
But to historians it is also famous for being only city state in the Ancient World that Alexander the Great failed to conquer, and you will see why. Amazingly, the ruins are remarkably intact and completely unrestored, making them one of Turkey’s best but least known historical sites. If you have time for one day trip while visiting Antalya, make it this one.
HISTORY OF TERMESSOS
According to Greek mythology, Termessos was founded by the Greek hero Bellerophon “the Monster Slayer”. But before the adoption of Greek culture, the mysterious Solymi people who inhabited the mountain were descended from the Hittite Pisidians.
Termessos was completely unknown to the rest of the world until Alexander the Great swept through Anatolia in his life-long war with Achaemenid Persia. However, he also found time to conquer most of the non-Persian civilizations in his way and set his eyes on the city state of Termessos in 333 BC.
After failing to storm the city’s massive walls, he besieged the city for a week, before giving up and moving north to take out his frustrations on Sagalassos. When the man who conquered the entire known world just to show everyone who was boss left Termessos still standing, the city shot from obscurity to Classical World fame as the only civilization that managed to defy the Macedonians.
After Alexander’s death, two of his generals, Alcetas and Antigonos (Alexander’s stepbrother) fought each other for control over the region. Alcetas and his entourage sought refuge in Termessos, which had sworn to protect him, while Antigonos surrounded the city with a massive army of elephants, cavalry and 40,000 infantry.
The elders of the city, who fancied themselves skilled fortune-tellers, foresaw disaster and agreed to surrender Alcetas, who committed suicide rather than be tortured to death by his enemies. The youths of Termessos, who had opposed the elders’ decision, buried Alcetas in a beautiful monument that can still be seen today to appease the gods for their city’s treachery.
This might have paid off, since Termessos thereafter entered several centuries of stability and military success by allying with Attalos II, King of Pergamon (whom Antalya is named after) and later the Romans, whose own obsession with Alexander only strengthened their respect for Termessos’ valiant past. The Roman Senate even granted the city independent status in 71 BC.
In the 5th century AD an earthquake destroyed the city’s aqueduct and forced its citizens to abandon the site and settle along the coast. To this day, the surname “Solymeus” (from the original Hittite name for the mountain) is common in the Antalya region, indicating a proud, epic family history that has been largely forgotten by the world.
SIGHTS OF TERMESSOS
Entering the site by the winding road from the main street, you see several rock-carved tombs and the Yenice Pass, though which Alexander made his ill-fated assault on the city.
Hadrian’s Gate at the entrance to the main city was built in 130 AD in honor of the Roman Emperor Hadrian.
Beyond the inner walls is the agora, which is uniquely raised on stone blocks and has five water cisterns beneath it.
The agora is surrounded by stoas, the most impressive of which is the Stoa of Attalos II, built for the city by the King of Pergamon as a sign of friendship.
To the east of the agora lies the 5000-seat theatre, one of the biggest and best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in Turkey, with a stunning backdrop. The rooms under the stage were used to keep wild animals for gladiatorial games.
Nearby, the odeon, a 700-seat theatre was used for smaller performances and lectures.
For the intrepid explorer, turn right at the Corinthian Temple sign (no 25) and walk about 250 meters to the once-magnificent Tomb of Alcetas, built for Alexander’s general by repentant Termessians. It has since been smashed open by treasure hunters.
TRANSPORTATION TO / FROM TERMESSOS
Despite its wonderfully remote, mountain-top atmosphere, Termessos is just a 37-km, or a 45-minute taxi ride away from Antalya city center. If you have your own transport, take the D350 highway towards Burdur and turn off at the sign for Termessos.
There are no public transport options, unless you fancy walking or hitchhiking up the 10 km from the main road, in which case take bus 506 from Antalya city center and get off at Aydinlar. For information on how to get to or from Antalya please watch our Antalya video.
EATING, DRINKING, ACCOMMODATION IN TERMESSOS
At the bottom of the hill and near the turn-off to Antalya is Termessos Cadir Restaurant, which has decent food and cute dining huts with excellent views of the nearby countryside. For anything more ambitious than a quick lunch, including hotels, bars, and a bigger range of restaurant options, you will have to return to Antalya and check out the recommendations in our Antalya video.
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