Aristotle, roasted almond mezes, and a tortured history… Of all Turkey’s hidden treasures, Assos (Behramkale in Turkish) is an insiders’ favorite, conveniently located between Istanbul and Izmir on the Aegean coast. The town’s traditional stone houses, lush hill-top setting and pretty harbor command spectacular views over the Aegean and the Greek island of Lesbos. But the main reason most people come here is to reflect on the epic remains of the Ancient Greek city of Assos, the site of an untold, gruesome story that shaped the life and legacy of one of its former residents: THE philosopher, Aristotle. But more about him later. Assos is surrounded by the other pleasant towns and natural wonders of the Biga Peninsula, has decent transport connections, and boasts good-value hotels and restaurants for such a small town with so much to offer.
HISTORY OF ASSOS
Assos was founded around 1000 BC by Greek colonists from Lesbos and grew on trade until it was the most powerful city state in the region. Around 350 BC, Eubulos ruler of Assos died, and was succeeded by his trusted friend, advisor, and slave Hermeias. He had a lofty plan to convince the world’s leading philosophers to move to Assos and build a center of learning. Hermeias had previously been a student of Plato and wrote to his old school buddies back in Athens about his idea. One of them was Aristotle, who arrived in Assos in 347 BC, married Hermeias’s niece, and founded his own academy though which he did some of his most important work, particularly on biology, politics, and ethics.
This golden age came to an unpleasant end two years later when a Persian army showed up, tortured Hermias to death and then crucified the rest of the city’s inhabitants for good measure. Aristotle was one of the few who escaped, shortly thereafter accepting a job offer from King Philip II of Macedonia who needed a teacher for his son. That son grew up to become Alexander the Great, who reclaimed Assos in 334 BC, before chasing the Persians out of Anatolia, invading their lands, and burning their capital, thus ending the most powerful empire the world had ever seen. The significance of this event, the influence that Aristotle had on Alexander, and the impact of what happened in Assos had on Aristotle makes this event a formative moment in Classical history.
After Alexander’s death Assos was ruled by the Kings of Pergamon, descendants of Alexander’s general Eumenes, before passing to the Romans in 133 BC. Two centuries later, St Paul and Luke the Evangelist passed through on route from Ephesus to Lesbos. Assos thereafter declined in importance and was forgotten, until it was conquered by the Ottomans under Murad I who liked the town enough to bestow upon it some of the earliest surviving examples of Ottoman civil engineering.
SIGHTS OF ASSOS
At the entrance to the old town, new arrivals are greeted by a beaming statue of Aristotle.
Cobble stone streets lead up the hill past stone houses to the entrance to the historical site and its acropolis, with great views of the island of Lesbos and the surrounding countryside. The acropolis is dominated by the dramatic remains of the Temple of Athena, which date back to 530 BC.
From here follow a path through the city wall and gate to the ruins of the gymnasium and agora.
Directly south is a well-preserved amphitheater, where Aristotle first presented many of his formative ideas to the world.
To the west lies the imposing main city gate, and beyond it the necropolis, which is littered with rock-carved tombs.
Just south of the theatre, and outside the historical site itself, the modern incarnation of Assos’ ancient harbor is a beautiful place to end your day, with the town’s best restaurants, bars, and a pebbly beach.
Assos’ less ancient history is represented by two interesting early-Ottoman features. Next to the entrance to the ruins stands a mosque built by Murad “Hudravendigar” I, the third Ottoman sultan, after claiming the town in 1462. This only one of two mosques in Turkey that survive from this period, when Turks designed their mosques without minarets. A short walk from the bottom of the hill is the Hudravendigar stone bridge which dates from the same period.
TRANSPORT TO/FROM ASSOS
If you have your own transport, Assos is a surprisingly pleasant 4- to 5-hour drive from either Istanbul or Izmir. If not, inter-city busses will drop you at either Küçükkuyu or Ayvacık, where you will have to get a 30-minute taxi or minibus (if you get lucky with your timing) to Assos. Edremit to the east is home to the local airport, from which regular minibuses run to Küçükkuyu, which takes about an hour.
AROUND ASSOS
A short taxi ride away (or a slightly longer bus ride via Ayvacık) are the Kaz Dağları (known to Greek mythology as Mount Ida), with an impressive combination of mountain-top getaways, hiking options, pleasant beach towns, and of course more Greek ruins. Check out our Kaz Dağları video for more information.
To the west lies the rest of the Biga Peninsula, known to the Ancient Greeks as the Troad, and similarly endowed with historical and natural curiosities. See our Biga Peninsula video for more information.
EATING AND DRINKING IN ASSOS
Assos has a good line in seafood and unusual meze options. There are several uninspiring eateries and cafes in the old town, but the best restaurants (which double as bars) are on the waterfront in the harbor. We suggest Uzun Ev, which has good food, booze and a wonderfully cozy inside just by the water.
ACCOMMODATION IN ASSOS
There are plenty of accommodation options in the old town and the modern town, but our advice is to stay in the harbor and check in at Behram Hotel, which has clean, comfortable rooms, many with sea views, an excellent restaurant and an included breakfast.
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For ESL instructors, we’ve also shared comprehension, vocabulary, and discussions questions, as well as a fun crossword puzzle.
